History of silk
Silk manufacture or Sericulture, as it is technically called, originated in China. However, silk was an unknown thing for the West for a very long time. Roman historian Pliny wrote in 70th BC that silk was produced “…by removing the down from the leaves with the help of water…” – a clear indication about the ignorance about silk in the West.

Perhaps this secret is one of the safest guarded ones in the history of civilization.

According to the Chinese legend, queen Hsi-Ling-Shih, wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor started the idea of silkworm rearing and the loom. Legend says that the Yellow Emperor reined the country in 3000 BC; so China can claim of silk rearing from that period. However, studies conducted that it originated much earlier.
Since silk began with the Royal family, evidently for a long period of time, its use was restricted to the King and his family.  It is said that the king wore a white silk robe inside the palace and a yellow one outside the premises.

Much later, it reached out to the various sections of the society. Its use was initially meant for clothing and decoration and later on for industrial purposes that included fishing lines, musical instruments, and various kinds of bonds, bowstrings and rag paper. In due course of time, this fabric became accessible even to the common man and silk clothing gained popularity.

How is silk made?
Silk production is a tedious and lengthy process that requires continuous supervising of the smallest of the details. To ensure the quality of silk, it is important to consider two conditions - prevent the moth from hatching out and setting the perfect the diet on which the silkworms should feed.

The hatching of the eggs occurs at 77 degrees; the baby silk worms gorge on the mulberry leaves and becomes almost 10,000 times their weight within one month. This feeding happens unless they have built up enough energy to enter the ‘cocoon stage’. During this period, a jelly like substance is formed in their silk glands which harden on contact with air. These cocoons look like white puffy balls. After eight to nine days, these silk worms are killed, by steaming or baking. When these cocoons are dropped into hot water, they become loose and open out into filaments which are unwound into a spool. Each filament is between 600 and 900 meters long. To get one silk thread, approximately five to eight filaments are twisted together; these silk threads are then woven into cloth or used for embroidery work.

What are the various types of silks?
Mulberry – This type of silk is obtained from the silk worm Bombyx mori L. that primarily survives on the leaves of the mulberry plant. These silk worms are cultivated and reared indoors. Besides this variety, the others are usually called non-mulberry silks. India is one of the primary producers of mulberry silk.

Tasar – Pronounced Tussah, this is copper brownish in color and is slightly coarse in texture. Tasar is mainly used for the upholstery and interior décor. Though it does not have the sheen of mulberry silk there is a unique appeal about this variety. It is obtained from the silkworm Antheraea mylitta which mainly survive on the food plants Asan and Arjun. Unlike the mulberry variety, these worms are reared outdoors in the open.

Oak Tasar – This is a finer variety of the previous one and is obtained from the silk worms Antheraea proyeli J. and Antheraea pernyi.  China is the major producer of this silk type.

Eri – Eri is a unique variety and is spun from open ended cocoons. The silk worm species Philosamia ricini that thrives on castor leaves generate this variety. It is also primarily produced in India and used for the manufacture of wraps (called chaddars).

Muga – This has a lovely golden yellow color and generated from the semi-domesticated multivoltine silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. They thrive on the leaves of aromatic plants Som and Saolu and found in Assam, India.

Types of silk fabrics
Charmeuse – This silk type is one of the most widely recognized fabrics that are available in the market today. It is typically characterized by its lustrous shine and sumptuous feel and is primarily used for the manufacture of skirts, dresses, eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and gently shaped tops.

Crepe de Chine or CDC – This kind of silk has a ‘matte’ surface and a ‘pebbled’ texture; besides it is also extremely durable and wrinkle resistant. Due to its light weight, it is a hot favorite among the designers and is primarily used for fashionable and sophisticated skirts, dresses, suits and evening wear.

Filament silk or reeled silk - Made of individual strands that vary in length, this versatile knit fabric maximizes silk’s superb ability to insulate your body and wick away moisture. It is characterized by its light in weight yet highly durable. Its elastic and luxurious texture makes it ideal for the chic and opulent lingeries slips, and camisoles. The natural elastic quality of this fabric ensures all day comfort and is perfect for beneath casual & business clothes.

Georgette – Georgette reminds one of crepe de Chine. It is soft and lustrous that drapes very easily and falls into soft ripples. It is characterized by a ‘grainy’ texture and is used for the manufacture of dresses, skirts, blouses, tops and evening wear.

Habutai – “Habutai”, meaning ‘soft and downy’ in Japanese was first used for the making of Kimonos. It is soft, light, and lustrous with a very graceful drape and smooth surface and is utilized for making blazers, skirts, lingerie, suits, quilts, jacket linings, dresses and evening wear.